Road trip to the Coastal Paradise : Malvan - Tarkarli - Devbag - Bhogve - Nivati - Khavne - Kondura - Velgurla - Redi - Shiroda - Tiracol

In the month of November, after the holy festival of Diwali, we went to a long weekend trip to the Konkan region. This time we chose the lowermost coastal side of Maharashtra, called Tal Kokan in Marathi (तळकोकण).

Day	Itinerary	Stay
0	Night Journey Pune to Kolhapur	Kedarling Lodge, Near Rankala Lake, Kolhapur
1	Early Morning Journey Kolhapur to Malvan Scuba Diving at Malvan Devbaug Beach Tsunami Island Devbaug	Annapurna Guest House, Tarkarli.
2	Sindhudurg Fort Jayant Salgaokar Ganesh Temple, Malvan Rock Garden, Malvan Bhogve Beach Nivati Fort Beach Khavane Beach Kondura Beach	Dhuri Homestay, Vengurla
3	Reddi Beach Yashwantgad Fort Reddi Ganesh Temple Shiroda Beach Tiracol Fort	Dhuri Homestay, Vengurla
4	Narmada Cashew Factory, Vengurla Rameshwar Temple, Vengurla Day Journey to Pune

Distance: Pune Malvan - via Kolhapur 400 km
Nearest Railway Station : Kudal (30 km from Malvan)

We were 7 people. My wife Ketki and me, Pritesh and his wife Renu, Vishal and his wife Anushri & son Ved. Pritesh and Renu went ahead couple of days before us and left early so all of us had an overlap of one day.
We chose Malvan as our meeting point and explored different beaches situated on the southern side of Malvan till the land ends for Maharashtra.
This was my longest road trip in our car. So i split the journey in 2 parts.
1. Pune - Kolhapur
2. Kolhapur - Malvan
We left Pune on Thursday evening and reached Kolhapur by midnight. The road conditions on the NH4 was simply amazing.
We were carrying some food with us so we did not take any halt on the way to Kolhapur. But due to the proposed strike by the fuel dealers starting from the next day, i had to wait couple of times to refuel and top up the tank. I was also carrying a 6 ltr can of a backup fuel, just in case there are no fuel supply at all in Malvan. Within 4 hrs we were at Kedarling Resort, in Kolhapur Fortunately the strike got cancelled the next day and our trip went smooth.

Daily Expenses
Tank full of petrol - Rs.3000
Nasrapur Toll -
Satara Toll -
Kolhapur Toll -
Stay at Kedarling Resort, Kolhapur - Rs.700
Meal Parcel from Venkey's - Rs.160
Meal Parcel from Eatsome - Rs. 240

Day 1

We left Kolhapur before the dawn, by 3 am, for Malvan. You can chose any route from Kolhapur to Malvan.
1. via Gaganbawda Ghat
2. via Bhuibawda Ghat
3. via Phonda Ghat
4. via Amboli Ghat (long route)
Out of all these options, we had to consider the safest one as we were travelling in pre dawn time. Phonda was ruled out as it has a jungle section of Radhanagari on the way. Amboli was a long cut and i had little information about Bhuibawda. We chose Gaganbawda. This is also known as Karul Ghat. The road from Kolhapur till the actual ghat section began was very smooth. Even though it was pre dawn time, there was light traffic on the way. Also there are number of villages on this road so i found it safe to drive so early in the morning. The road conditions of the actual Ghat section was extremely terrible. It was a terribly slow bumpy ride. We reached Vaibhavwadi, the base village of Gaganbawda by 6.00 AM. It took us next 3 to 3.30 hours to reach Malvan.

We checked in at Annapurna Guest House in Tarkarli and joined Pritesh and Renu for Scuba diving near the Malvan Jetty point. The actual diving site is behind the Sindhudurga Fort, so you need to travel by boat to the site. The light was good so we were able to spot the fishes underwater. We were under water for about 40-45 minutes. It was a peaceful and beautiful experience. Thanks to Pritesh, we got fantastic service from the diving team of Markateshwar Scuba, Malvan.

Malvan Scuba Diving

Malvan has number of options to do scuba diving. I don't think the facilities they offer are very modern. Ketki and I had already done the diving in Goa with DiveGoa, which offers world-class facilities and excellent equipments, but of course it was a costly affair. From my side the bars were low for scuba in Malvan. To my surprise, the experience was really good. The equipments they used were excellent and the service too was good. From safety point of view i would say they need to be more organised and take better safety measures, but we loved the experience.
You need to reach their stall on the Malvan coast by 9am. They take you to the diving site by boat. The diving site is located at the southern side of the Fort Sindhudurg. The waters are warm, clear & full of varied marine-life. This may include coral reefs and their denizens, such as fish, starfish, sea urchins and mollusks.
You can also get underwater snaps and videos.

We returned to the coast by 3 PM. We had planned to visit the most famous Malvani restaurant in the town, Atithi Bamboo, but it was fully crowded by the time we reached there. So we chose Hotel Saiba, couple of kilometers away from there. 

Around 5 PM the third couple, Vishal and Anushri along with their son Ved, joined us and all of us went to Devbaug beach

Devbaug Beach

Devbag beach is located at 8km from Malvan. It is a beautiful beach. The beach of Devbag is at the confluence of River Karli and the Arabian Sea. Narrow section of land has the sea at one side and the river at the other. The beach is beautiful and clean. There is ample parking near the beach. The approach road to Devbag is quite narrow so you can expect some roadblocks on the way. There are couple of portions of the land that come up during the low tide and gives you an experience of being on an island. They are famously known as Tsunami Islands.

Tsunami Islands

This is a small patch of the land that exposes during low tide. Nowadays it has become a popular spot for beach sports like motor boat, chair ride, banana boat ride etc. There are number of service providers that take you to the Tsunami Islands for boating activities. You can visit the spot in low tide and return to Devbag before the high tide begins.
It was post sunset by the time we reached here so it was time for high tide. We spent about half n hour on this island and left Devbag.

Daily Expenses
Breakfast – Rs.60 (Pohe, Ghavan, Tea)

Scuba Diving at Malvan – Rs.1600 per head

Lunch at Saibaa, Malvan – Fish Thali – Rs.280, Chicken Thali – Rs.220

Boat ride at Devbag – Rs.100 per head

Dinner at Annapurna – Maggie (Rs.40 per plate)

Day 2

Sindhudurga Fort

This is an architectural marvel built by King Shivaji. Spread over 48 acres, the Sindhudurg Fort was built on a large island, known as Kurte Island, over a period of 3 years (1664-67). It was built as a part of Shivaji's naval strategy. With this fort along with some more like Vijaydurg, Jaigad King Shivaji was able to control the Konkan Region of his reign.

Click here for details here

We reached the Malvan beach by 9 am. There are boat rides available to and from the fort on the beach. It takes you 15-20 min to reach the fort. The boatman drops you at the entrance. You have around 1hr to explore the fort, and you have to return to the beach by the same boat. Around 20-25 people can travel in a single boat. Make sure you wear a life jacket on your journey.

When you reach the fort, the first thing you can observe is the strategic entrance of the fort. The S share curved pathway is built in such a way the main gate can not be seen from outside at all. This kind of design with blind curves was a hall mark of Maratha Architecture. Once you enter the main gate (Ganesh Darwaja) you can trace the concrete pathway and walk around.

Places to see in Sindhudurg Fort.

1. Strong Bastions & Fortification

The 48 acres area of the fort is protected by a strong fortification. The entire fortification wall covers a distance of approx 4 km and has a height of 9 meters. 42 strong bastions on the wall used to provide vantage points to protect the fort from all the sides.

2. Temple of Shivaji Maharaj

This is supposed to be the only temple of the great Maratha Warrior. The 350 years old temple is built by Chatrapati Rajaram, Shivaji's younger son. The temple hosts an idol of Shivaji in boatman's attire. The temple also hosts a replica of Bhawani Sword. You can go inside the Gabhara (innermost section of the temple) and see the idol and the sword. The curator of the temple gives you historical information about the temple and the artifacts it preserves. 

P.S. - Please switch off your camera and mobile while entering the temple, to avoid public insult by the curator of the temple.

  

3. Three wells of sweet water

Even though the fort is surrounded by sea from all the sides, it is blessed with 3 wells of sweet water. 

4. Padmadurg

During the journey between the fort and the coast, you can spot the rocky island on the way. That used to be another small fort named Padmdurg. It is now in ruins.

5. Ranichi Wela (Queen's Beach)

Situated on the southern side of the fort a small beach, that used to be a private beach for Queen Taramati, Shivaji's Daughter in Law.

The fort also hosts a Shiva Temple called Shabhu Mahadev and a temple of Godess Bhawani. Nearby the entrance, there are 2 spots which suppose to have the hand and foot prints of Shivaji Maharaj. There are 15 to 20 families living permanently inside the fort. There are number of food stalls inside the fort where you can get snacks, cold drinks, meals etc.

Walking on the fortification and seeing the dark blue see all around was a pleasing experience. An hour went by and it was time to say good bye to this marvelous fort. We left for our boat and reached the cost by 11 am. 

Jayant Salgaokar Ganesh Temple

The famous astrologer and the owner of the calender Kalnirnay, Jyotirbhaskar Jayant Salgaokar was a native Malvankar. He has built a temple called Jai Ganesh temple in the region Medha in Malvan. The colorful temple surrounded by coconut grooves, hosts a beautiful idol of lord Ganesh. The temple is just couple of km distance from the main square of Malvan.

Rock Garden

On the northern side of the town, The municipal council of Malvan has developed a beautiful garden along the coastline. Surrounded by the rocky surface, the garden is thus called Rock Garden. They have maintained the natural texture of the rocky surface as it is and added greenery with lawns and trees. It must be a nice spot to visit during sunset.

Bhogave Beach

Situated close to the Tarkarli beach, separated by Karli river, Bhogave beach is a beautiful beach with clear white sand. The beach is scattered with rocks. We spent an hour enjoying the unending stretch of beach and went to our next destination, Nivati Fort Beach. The pristine beach is located on the coastal highway joining Malvan to Vengurla. The road conditions are fantastic to drive.

Distance - Malvan to Bhogwe beach 26 km.

Nivati Beach

This beach is an untouched treasure. It gave us the raw feel of Konkan in a first sight. A beautiful stretch of white sand, a small section of land stretching in to the blue sea, a small community of sailors with their typical huts, all in all it was a wonderful experience. This beach must be visited to experience the clean, clear and dry white sand. We spent an hour on the beach. There is no cottage, homestay or lodge for tourists. Just couple of public transport buses visit the village per day. One family has begun providing accommodation for tourists in their home. Nivati Fort is located couple of kilometers away from this beach.

Distance – Malvan to Nivati Fort Beach – 45 km.

Khavne Beach

The access to the beach is very convenient as you can take your vehicle all the way to the beach. The beach is very clean with number of boats parked alongside. There is a small hill on the left, which if visited can be a scenic experience. Thankfully, the beach is not yet occupied by crowd pulling commercial activities, hence untouched.

Distance – Malvan to Khavane Beach – 31 km.

Kondura Beach

We visited this beach during sunset, the experience was visual delight!
The beach has all and all raw touch. On the left, there is a small hill filled with coconut trees, on the right there is a small cluster of huts. Sand on the beach is extremely clean. No bad smell of rotten stuff, no litter and best of all, No Plastic. Absolutely Nothing!! Heavy rocks residing on the beach have been chiseled by severe force of the waves. Their shape looks scary!
There is no board that displays the direction for this beach. Most of the time there is no internet range on the way too. There is a small lane on right side on the way to Vengurla that takes you straigth to the village. Travel for approx 2 km on that lane, and you reach Kondura village. At the end of the road there is a narrow and steep slope of around 200 ft. before the beach. There are no commercial facilities available in the village. Nearest town is Vengurla.

Distance – Malvan to Kondura – 40 km. Vengurla to Kondura – 13 km.

We reached Vengurla by 8 pm. All of us were still in the hangover of Kondura! In Vengurla, The two families split, as Vishal and Anushri were staying at Hotel Sagar Kinara for that night. So Ketki and I went to our destination, Dhuri Homestay. 

Dhuri Homestay, Vengurla

What a fantastic experience. Full 5 starts from me. We were thouroughly impressed by the hospitality provided by Mr. Dhuri, a humble and kind owner of this property.

Location -
Dhuri Homestay is located in a village named Math. Math is approx. 10 km from Vengurla town on Vengurla-Savantwadi road. There is a statue of Shivaji as you enter Math. Mobile network in that area is quite inconsistant. There are very few facilities available in Math. The approach to the property is easy if you follow the instructions given by Dhuri when you reach Math.

Property -
Dhuri Homestay consists of a cottage split into two rooms. Each room is equipped with a king size bed with side tables, a small changing area with a dressing table and an attached toilet. We were in love with the interiors of the rooms. Mr. Dhuri must have taken lot of efforts in designing the rooms that would take care of all the needs of the travelers. There is a small porch outside the room. Mr. Dhuri has planted varieties of plants surrounding the cottage. The open space near the cottage is converted into a dinning area.
Room -
When we arrived in the room, it was fully cleaned, the washroom was clean, there was a dettol hand wash kept near the basin, there were safety nets fixed on the ceilings so as to avoid mosquito or any other insect entering in. Bed was surrounded by a netted curtain and covered in a clean white bed sheet.
Meals -

Before the meals, let me tell you taste the water there. Although it is from their well, I found it tastier than any other mineral water. Both Veg and Non Veg meals are provided here. All the meals we had were simply tasty. They had that authentic konkani flavor. Breakfast too was good. Do taste Solkadi, Ukdiche Modak and Ghavan with Chatani.

Hospitality -
Mr. Dhuri and his family was very warm in their service. Couple of days were enough to establish a strong bond of friendship between us. No doubt we are revisiting this place next year. If you are interested in a peaceful stay in Konkan, away from the crowded and noisy surroundings, just pack your bags and go to Dhuri Homestay. Everything else will be taken care of. 

Day 3

Our day began with an early morning tea and a walk along the narrow road near the homestay. Vishal and Anushri joined us as Dhuri Homestay for breakfast. After a superb breakfast of Ghavan and Chatani we left to explore the southern side of Sindhudurg.

Yashwant Gad Fort

coming soon..

Redi Ganesh Temple

We visited this by noon. It was under construction then. The idol of Ganapati, in this temple is very beautiful and colorful. There is a photograph of the original idol kept in the temple. The original idol is said to be Swayambhu (Originated by itself) The temple is located on a hill top surrounded by sea. There is a beach, known as Redi Fort Beach which is located at 1 km from the temple. 

Shiroda Beach

This beach is one of the popular beaches in Vengurla region. Located almost at the southern tip of Maharashtra, the beach is quite commercial with options for food and beach activities. There are small huts created on the sand to enjoy the view. Due to its vicinity to Goa, lot of Goan tourists visit this place too. 
Distance - Vengurla to Shiroda - 14 km. 

Tiracol Fort

Welcome to Goa. 
This is property, once a fort in Portuguese era, is now converted in to a heritage resort. Located on a hilltop and surrounded by the creek of Tiracol, this is the norther most tip of Goa. One section of this property is open to public. There is a small church and an erected statue of Jesus Christ in front of it. There are couple of bastions along the fortification from where you can spot a beautiful view of the river Terekhol meeting the Arabian Sea. On the way you need to cross the Maharashtra-Goa border check post. Make sure you do not carry too many beer bottles. 

You can get more information about the fort here.

Distance - Vengurla to Fort Tiracol 21 km. 

Daily Expenses

Lunch – Shiroda Beach (Maggie Rs.50 per plate)

Day 4

This would be our last day in Vengurla. We left early and went to check out the town. Narmada Cashew factory was a km away from Dhuri Homestay. We also visited the Rameshwar Temple. 

Rameshwar Temple, Vengurla

Rameshwar is the Gram Daivat (Chief deity of the town) of Vengurla. This 300 years old temple is situated at the heart of the town. Festivals like Mahashivratri and Bhajan Saptah are popular events celebrated in this temple. The temple is easily accessible from the ST stand. If you have your personal vehicle then parking could be an issue as the lanes are narrow and crowded by stalls. 

Daily Expenses

Dhuri Homestay – Stay Rs.1400 per day

Dhuri Homestay – Meals Unlimited (Veg Thali Rs. 200, Chicken Thali Rs.250, Beakfast Rs.50 per head) No cost for countless Tea, Coffee, Kokam Drink.

Lunch – White House Mall NH4 (Rs.160 Veg Dish, Rs.20 Roti)

Contacts

Kedarling Hote, Kolhapur - 0231 262 6777

Annapurna Guest House, Tarkarli - 02365 253 702

Dhuri Homestay, Vengurla – 9420740901/9604165641

Janu Restaurant, Redi Fort Beach - 094202 62239

Narmada Cashew Factory, Vengurla - 098234 75956

GPS Locations (Courtesy - Pritesh Kulkarni Blogs)

Dhuri Homestay:15.896139, 73.679139
Mochemad Beach:15.800466, 73.650906 (Drive till GPS 15.805241, 73.655242 and then take right for beach. Good Map route is not accurate for Mochemad beach)
Shiroda Beach:15.769325, 73.662672
Redi Beach:15.752927, 73.664167 (You can search for Janu Resturant, Redi in Google as it is located on Beach)
Yashwant Fort:15.752628, 73.664105 (Take a left from GPS point to start fort trail)
Querim Beach / Keri Beach:15.717383, 73.690986
Arambol Beach / Harmal beach:15.687082, 73.703607

Bhogave Beach:15.956238, 73.503549
Devbagh Beach:15.969524, 73.501575
Malvan Scuba Dive / Snorkeling point:16.042065, 73.461599 (GPS location is in Sea hence you need to take Boat to reach this point)

Thank you.